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It still heralds from that lofty spot among the rocky lava flows, whose black, sooty soils contrast dramatically with the profusion of wild fennel that coats the volcano. These extraordinary soils, rich in magma minerals, appear to give a smoky edge to the loganberry, fleshy fruit, while remaining very precise and salty – a natural trait of the Nerello Mascalese grape.
There is this languid quality in the wines of 2014. In them, there is a massive quality, full-bodied with powerful aromas that hover just above the surface of the wine, instead of leaping out of the glass. It’s apparent that the wine is dense, yet soft; it has the aroma of sandalwood, and each month it shows the same grand, free quality, which seems to defy the laws of gravity. The perfume of sandalwood in the 2014 vintage softens the more typical aromas of citrus fruits and camphor, typical of the lavas of Etna.
3. Passopisciaro Etna Passorosso 2014 ($65)
The importer has already sold out of this fantastic wine from the fertile slopes of Sicily’s Mount Etna. However, you can still find it (in rapidly decreasing quantities) at selected retailers around the country, and when you do I recommend you buy the lot.
It is a mid-weight wine that somehow conveys a sense of rocky energy. It has an exciting nose where strawberry and raspberry fruit are lifted by violet aromatics, and there are herbs, spices and the stony, rocky element that is hard to identify but undeniably present. I should probably recommend drinking it with food but I enjoyed it so much it had gone before I had even given a thought to the menu.
A definite wine of the year contender. Weekend Australian
Price | $69.00 |
Category | No |
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