For those who’ve tasted the entry-level Wickhams Road Yarra Valley Chardonnay, the expectations for this Estate release are surely high. The good news is that it delivers…emphatically. Intensity, texture, drive and integration. But above all length. It’s almost excessively persistent.

The wine displays fresh green tinges on a pale straw colour. The nose exhibits aromas of fresh cut pear and honey dew melon with some zesty citric notes. There are no overt woody or buttery aromas with the primary fruit characters expressed with clarity and definition. The palate is fresh and lively with clean crisp acidity complementing the vibrant fruity flavours. The palate has very good extension and ends clean and bright. This is a restrained style of Australian Chardonnay and highlights how far we have come with this style of wine over the last decade.

Well integrated toasty/bacony oak. And a lemony tang through the finish to complete the job nicely. At first I couldn’t find the X-factor – and then, a couple of hours from opening, it really started to rumble. Time in the cellar should work wonders for this little beauty. Rated : 95 Points Winefront.com.au