Over many years, certain vineyard sites in Barolo country have consistently stood out for their ability to produce superior wines. While soils in the Langhe hills are fairly consistent, with variations of marl, the crucial determinant here is exposure, as proper ripening depends on abundant sunshine during the growing season.

The steep Ravera cru of Monforte d’Alba faces south and southeast, ideal for capturing  maximum rays throughout the day. From an early age Massimo Benevelli helped his father, Piero, farm these vineyards, and he has now fully taken the reins of the family estate. He follows traditional practices, aging the wine in large casks to make deep, powerful Barolos built to age. This 2013 comes from a classic, balanced vintage in which bright acidity and tightly knit tannins provide a firm structure while a floral, spicy, fresh-raspberry perfume seems to soar from the glass.

From a single cru in the deep south of Monforte.

Has to be one of the great Barolo bargains in this country. Importer: Mondo Imports

It’s a more structured, finer rendition of Benevelli, and somewhat reticent, so give it a good while in glass or decanter if going in early, and I know many do, because often it’s important to feel the merchandise, as it were. Anyway, going on from there, bright cherry fruit, aromatic and spicy, with mint, liquorice, orange peel and dried flowers. Shows a small amount of spicy wood, but it pretty quickly slinks back into the wine with air, so no concern. Medium bodied, red cherry, blackcurrant, new leather and dried spices, with fresh acidity, firm black tea tannin, and a bright red fruit and sage-brushed finish of fine length. Restraint and structure here, with fresh fruit, as is typical of this wonderful vintage. I’m thinking this will be a pearler with appropriate bottle age. 94 + points Winefront.com.au